Anyone here good with antique tools? My long arm lopper[? I want to call it a billhook] is in dire need of a sharpen, but I’m hesitant to undo the bolt without knowing how to properly retension it.
It looks like you should be able to undo the pivot bolt nut, tap out the bolt, and slide out the blade. The hardest part will be undoing that nut as you’ve only got a flathead slot for purchase on the other side and the nut’s likely rusted in place along with the end of the bolt appearing to be peened over a bit (either deliberately or through being banged against stuff over the years).
The easiest way may be to simply sharpen the blade in place, I would expect there to be just enough room to slide a file in to sharpen the blade as you move it inwards.
If you do have to remove the blade put some penetrating fluid on the bolt threads and let it sit overnight before trying to undo it (ATF and acetone mixed 50:50 works well or buy one of the commercial sprays).
Once you’ve got to the point of reassembly how tight you want to go will depend on whether you’ve got something fixed at the pivot point acting as a spacer. You might find the bolt is stepped with the threaded end being slightly smaller, or potentially a bush around the bolt. In this case you can tighten the nut firmly as the bolt or spacer will maintain the distance between the two plates.
If there is nothing to maintain the spacing between the side plates you can’t tighten the nut right up as it’ll push the plates into the blade and stop it moving. In this case tighten the nut gently until the blade is moving freely with little free play side to side, and you will want to use thread locker on the threads or peen the end threads over to prevent the nut coming undone again otherwise it’ll likely work its way off over time.
Got a pic of the blade? Is it hidden in the hook or on one side like secateurs? I’d look to sharpen it in place. Rasp, then file, then diamond file or whatever increasing grit options you have available. I’d avoid powered sharpening like an angle grinder or dremel, I seem to get a lot of chatter when doing that myself.
If the blade has a chisel edge you may need to disassemble it to restore the flatness of the flat side. If it’s sharpened from both sides, sharpening in place might be fine.
If you do replace the bolt, you can also use two nuts to create a locknut situation instead of threadlock or bolt peening.
It’s inside the hook, and double sided with a curved profile. I can’t envisage in place being physically accessible. Being told I’m massively overthinking this…
Oh, so it’s a little snub blade that chops whatever is in the “hook” of the thing. Yeah, I’d remove it’s bolt, sharpen it and if the bolt can’t be put back replace it with another blot with some threadlocker, double-nut or peened end to set the spacing right so it doesn’t pinch the mechanism.
My long reach lopers are pretty new by comparison. This kind of thing: https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-2-4m-telescopic-tree-pruner_p0242118 They still work a treat for having spend ten years living outside with the tools leaning on the back of the shed.
Even replacing the bolt with a bolt held in place by a through-pin and washer rather than a nut so it’s easy to service again if you need to.
This kind of pin, IDK what they’re called.
I don’t know that i can help, but what do the connection points look like on the otherside of the tool? Top and bottom.
Opposite sides. I suspect previous McGyvering.
Another option: 2. Dremel/grinder that bolt and screw off, then replace them with new ones.
This sounds dramatic, but it might be the best option because that nut and bolt look like they’re old enough to be imperial measurement not metric. Thanks to the US there are still plenty of imperial measured tools about, but there are less in Aus, and it’d be annoying to have to buy specific imperial sizes just for this tool when you could probably replace the nut and bolt with a similar sized metric nut and bolt.
I can’t really see in the pictures how that ‘steel adjuster pole’ is connected to the blade, so i can’t really say whether you’d be able to get that disconnected from the blade itself or not sorry.
Couple options i’d look at. I’ll put them in different comments though.
Looks like you could disconnect the blade with the ‘steel adjuster pole’ by loosening the hex nut and flat head bolt connecting the blade to the hook’s head.
If that comes off looks like you can pull the ‘steel adjuster pole’s’ small hook out by turning it perpendicular, down at the handle.
I’d use a correctly sized flat head screwdriver, and a socket wrench with the correct size socket for that nut. Everything looks quite rusty so i’d be circumspect about using off-sized tools because you don’t want to strip or round the screw or bolt.
Thanks! I’m pretty sure I’ve already got all I need to take it apart (much of your suggestions) it’s the back together bit
Oh right yeah, i sorta lost track of your intial question there.
I can’t see re-tensioning as an issue. This is because the spring is set in two un-adjustable holes/rings. Its the motion of the handle that looks like it adjusts the length of the spring. In the picture that springs looks like theres zero, or near zero tension on it.
But as u say, i’m just goin off the pictures.
Rust:
High heat (like a flame torch or burner) can help, the uneven expansion can crack the connection made between the two rusting metal surfaces, in this case thats the bolt and nut.
WD40 can also help, but make sure its dried off before applying heat, otherqise you’ll be starting a fire.
Hammering the bolt side can help crack the rust, but in this case due to how weak the metal is, i don’t know that this would be a great idea, due to the risk of deformation.
