I too install Linux Mint, though Fedora Silverblue and Kinote is another good alternative.

The FunkoPop Store EB Games here in Canada were re-labeled to GameStop recently. They’re still in every Mall in the land from what I’ve seen. Though they are doing better. Game selection isn’t what it use to be, but the variety is growing now. I was surprised when I found Manga in our local GameStop.

Not exactly my cup of tea, but catering to “Nerd” culture, and going beyond “Merch” is something I can get behind, since it’s rare to see another store not selling the same old drivel as everyone else.

After multiple volumes of things being so grim. It’s finally nice to see some classic bookworm slice of life stuff. As usual it’s a mad dash to the finish.

Philine is helping with Spring Prayer as an apprentice blue shrine maiden, and Damuel is guarding her. They should be back soon, I think…

I need this as a side story. Please Philine, do as Clarissa suggest.

I’ve been at this for years, most of my designs are like your solid parts (Display Stands and DS Stylus). I’ve only recently tried experimenting with moving parts, and I’ve found using mixed mediums the best when 3D printing. i.e. using cloth or leather as the moving medium, with TPU or PETG for strength/flexibility.

As for what this is for. I’ve designed and made 3D Printable e-reader cases, which this link will show you the printable parts for, but I’d like to make a case for my iPad and other tablets, however I want to be able to prop it up and for it to be stable. This is designed with my cases in mind, and it has the clearance to lay flush with the back panel.

End goal is to have this embeded in the back so I can prop it up landscape, while I have another in the sleep cover so it can be propped up portrait, like an easel.

I could achieve the same effect by making the arms thicker. Though I am thinking of printing the screw caps in TPU to see if I can make it stiffer that way.

Trying to keep the parts the same as the main thing this belongs too. M2 threaded inserts and 5mm screws. So not a lot of flexibility when it comes to thickness. That said, as a MK2 I’d probably make it 2mm thick rather than 1.2mm since that’s my goto size for stiffness.

Somewhere between Minecraft Java edition and a modern title made with the Steam Deck in mind, like TMNT Shreaders Revenge.

I’m just happy to see a slowly increasing support base, even if its just to support wine

I always thought that it was the computer adjusting the view for the crew. I mean its not a window its a screen.

I didn’t have to do that. Bought my parts from Canada Computers and they open the Motherboard box in store before the sale, to inspect it, and I had to sign off on it.

That said I had some issues of my own design. My PC has a space for a 3 1/2" floppy and I wanted it internal so I got a USB adapter for it to run off of the internal header. The damn board locks up on boot if its in.

Probably a setting but still annoying

While its annoying, its so easy to unsubscribe that I see it as a fair price for a free game.

Still one of my favourite sounds tracks to any game.

Ram is x2 16GB sticks, my BIOS yelled at me for not putting them in the optimum channels.

M.2 has my 2TB Linux Mint install and my 1TB Windows install. I’m not dual booting, just having the Windows install nearby just in case.

Well I did enable XMP, but since I’m on a B series board I don’t think I can overclock. And she’s toasty as is with the intel cooler.

I have the old physical copy. The DRM on it is awful, get the GOG copy.

I know, I just hope that they don’t point to it and say “this is the reason we don’t make 2D Zelda games” like they did with Chibi Robo and that god awful 3DS game, or Star Fox and that god awful Wii U game.

We do, but they aren’t that good of a deal, especially since you can get the same discount… if not more, if you buy used. And you can sell the game when you are done rather than being stuck with digital.

That said, outside of Nintendo, who rarely if ever discount their games, most games on modern systems get heavily discounted months if not a year after they come out. You are a fool if you buy the latest Ubisoft Game new since it’s usually $15-$30 before it’s been on-sale for a year. Even Sony first party IP, I got most of them for $10-$20 a pop new or digital, since I bought in at the tail end of the PS4 generation.

Been waiting for a new 2d Zelda game since link awakening was rereleased. So far it looks interesting. The only issue I can see with this game is that it to is going to be $79.99 CAD and from what I’ve seen it’s so not going to be worth that. Hoping for a $49.99 or $59.99 CAD price tag, but this is Nintendo.

But you are not to blame, Myne. We ended up in this situation because I could not keep my attendants under control.

DAMN, no wonder Arno disappeared up the towering stair case between P2 and P3. I wonder if his action in the Epilogue just dug his grave deeper? Or Faster?

Right, lots of suggestions for Bambu and Prusa and rightfully so. But their prices are high and while they are worth it, they wouldn’t be what I’d suggest for a first time printer.

The Ender 3 is what I’d suggest, though not the V1. The S1 or the v3 and good starting points for being in budget and having some modern features.

This isn’t like the mid 2010’s where it was hit or miss and the printers will have a slight chance of burning your house down. Hictop anyone? But these days even a $200 printer is good enough to start printing.

That said software is going to be your biggest pain point.

For the slicer make sure its compatible with PrusaSlicr or Cura. Preferability the former. This makes the models to print, and some cheep third party slicers makes their own with questionable quality and support.

For modeling, you have some options. Blender if you are looking to design 3d shapes like clay. Fusion360 is a cheap and free (while limited) solution for parametric cad design. With TinkerCAD is a good in between. But like Photoshop is to gimp, Fusion 360 is to FreeCAD and it may be worth learning how FreeCAD works since its an extremely flexible tool.

TL:DR Ender 3 V3/S1, Prusa Slicer, Cura, Blender, TinkerCAD, Fusion360, FreeCAD and you should be too to start printing and making brackets.

$500 for a Krabby Patty?

With cheese Mr. Squidward, with cheese.

For an alternative, when I was looking into server os’s, from what I can tell RHEL (Red Hat Enterprise Linux) is the go to since it’s stable. That said RHEL is not free, so what people use to do is get a free OS which is down stream to RHEL, that’s your Alma and Rocky Linux.

However back in 2023 IBM made some changes, and now Alma and Rocky had to rebase off of CentOS Stream which is what RHEL is based off of.

For all intent and purpose I’d recommend using Debain, but Alma and Rocky are alternatives you may want to look into. Personally using Alma and outside of the learning curve of using a RHEL based OS, it has been quite stable.