Member of multiple generations of migration waves. Also @moira and formerly solarbird on reddit. If federation starts working, I’ll probably mostly interact from mastodon, or may even set up my own kbin. (Which is what I did with Mastodon.) We’ll see. _

  • 2 Posts
  • 35 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: June 17th, 2023

help-circle
  • I’ve printed a couple of spools at different sizes, it’s really kind of nice to have them. Particularly smaller spools for smaller sample lengths, super worth it.

    But another thing you can do is just print a little single-wall cylinder that friction fits inside one of your existing spools, then cut the existing (non-printed) spool in half down the middle and use the cylinder as a friction-fit sleeve to hold the two halves together. That also gives you the same functionality. It’s not as cool but it saves on filament? _






  • It has pegs but I was able to see that there are rather typical screw heads in the heating plate to hold it down onto the bed’s support frame, and if you look you can see the bolt ends coming down out of the underside of the supporting arms.

    So I think what’s here is pretty simple: regular bolts with fixed length spacer tubes around them.

    And that means that OP should be able to sort this out with, say, the right collection of 0.5mm-thick washers. One on the front left screw, three on the right rear screw, uh, six on the back left screw should get close enough for the mesh to handle the remaining difference.


  • HVAC assist system. It cut our peak electricity bill by 40% year over year under similar conditions, too, with substantially better performance.

    But really it’s very simple. All I’m doing is improving the effectiveness of very traditional methods of temperature control by being more accurate and much more aggressive about exchanging air in and out when appropriate. Obviously in the middle of a 90-110F heat wave that’s not going to matter, so it’s more of a northern thing - but it really does a great deal in a lot of climates. (And in spring and autumn in more southern climates, I suppose.)

    One of the key elements is that outdoor temperature varies a lot from point to point on the property, so we have air exchange measured at five points around the house, keyed to local indoor vs. local outdoor air temperature. (And air quality and a few other things, of course.) The actual air exchange is a combination of the original air-exchange system plus just opening and closing windows. We overcool at night with air exchange so we’re always below ambient outdoor temperature during the day.

    It’s remarkably effective. We went from… well, it varied a lot, but +7 to +10 F above ambient to -7 to -5 below. (I was doing all this in C internally but F because I was talking about it to Americans.)

    Again, I’m in an environment where this is particularly effective, but it costs so little and saves so much money and energy use I have to think it has some general utility many places.

    Here are some of my posts about it:

    https://solarbird.net/blog/tag/ambient-hvac/







  • Y’know just in general I really strongly recommend going all-metal or better bimetallic on your hot end? It cleared up so many problems for me. The Ender 3-series hotends really aren’t bad if you just back that PTFE up a bit.

    I like this one (no affiliation other than I bought one) quite a lot, and I got it on sale so it was cheaper than the current price. But even at the current price I’d definitely say it’s still worth it.




  • If you’re willing to get into annealing, I’ve had good service from annealed HTPLA in high temperature/humidity and even overpressure environments. I’m three years into a build that gets multiple hours of use in such conditions a week and it’s held up fine. There have been other problems, but nothing related to bad behaviour out of the HTPLA.