A little bit shell magic around a little Python3 helper will do the job quickly: for i in $(seq 1 10); do grablinks.py --fix-links 'https://forums.aida64.com/topic/667-share-your-sensorpanel/page/'"${i}" --search 'file/attachment.php?' -f 'wget -c -O '\''%text%'\'' '\''%url%'\' | fgrep '.sensorpanel'; done | tee fetchscript.sh, then verify the generated shell script, and finally: sh fetchscript.sh.

Happy waiting! :)

You can grab my grablinks.py Python3 script from here: https://github.com/the-real-tokai/grablinks

I do it the other way around: first write (zero wipe), then read (SMART long test). Served me well for many disks. :)

I never had a bad block on a brand new drive. At least not a reported/ detectable one. So if it’s truly a “bad block” (how exactly is it reported in your SMART data?) I would exchange the disks.

It’s a 20% chance, I guess. Dunno. :) If it has a flat top surface and no air holes then it’s Helium, else it’s air.

That’s a helium one: https://pcper.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/d177-dsc00234-1280x640.jpg

That’s an air one: https://cdn.eteknix.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Western-Digital-WD-RED-8TB-Photo-view-angle-1-880x850.jpg

As long there are no reallocated sectors the drive may still be fine (your current data certainly has some damage, you better have a backup here.) Basically a “uncorrectable” is a sector that can’t be read anymore for various reason.… aka the data is bad currently. It does not automatically mean the sector/disk structure itself is broken.

The proper operation in this case is to full wipe the drive with a proper format (zero fill). Don’t do a quick format! Only afterwards you will know for sure the drive is bust or not. In case there’s permanent damaged sectors those “pending” ones would convert to “reallocated” sectors. If there was just some bad data the “pending” ones simply will disappear. If your disk collects reallocated sectors then it’s probably time to look for a new disk (albeit a low count of reallocated sectors that stays stable isn’t the end of the world either).

Unlikely. There used to be 8TB heliums at some point, but then WD replaced that line with air-filled ones. A process that at least went to the 10TB line too already, I believe. Your safe bet for helium is 14TB and up, I would say.

When you buy that 6TB drive make sure to get the WD60EZAX (aka CMR) and not the WD60EZAZ (aka SMR). It’s one letter difference… if you buy from a random dealer they may send you the SMR.

Rather than just mailing you the link you also could mail the text snippet too. A bit more work, but more robust into the future. If the respective site goes down you still have the critical information.

Typically in the specs sheet of the manufacturer. You have to read/ look closely. Best is to ask about a specific drive ID then we can tell more (out of experience).

If you have backups it doesn’t matter much what you buy. It’s not like there’s much choice anyway. :)

Do you want to buy a small 2.5" one? Or a larger 3.5" one?

All the small ones are SMR these days, so that’s something you should consider. Depending on exact use cases this may become very slow, and in case of error, like a sudden drop of power source which easily happens with externals, they also corrupt more easily (in other places, not just necessarily in the data you just wrote to them).

If you go for a bigger 3.5" drive go for a larger size and CMR. 4 TB is laughable and ultimately more expensive (EUR/$ per TB). I would recommend to look for 12TB and upwards with helium filled. The 18TB disks are the current price sweet spot it seems.