This is a follow up from my spaghetti post a few days ago.

Good news: I caught the nozzle catching on the infill during travels. The infill must have been curling up ever so slightly. Turning z-hop on solved this. I also bumped my nozzle to 255 based on a temp tower, but I don’t think my original issue was flow related.

Bad news: this brought me to the failure above - evidently my chamber temps are too low for this size of ASA part and it warped. Maybe the higher nozzle temp contributed. Maybe this size of ASA part is unrealistic despite not having sharp corners. Maybe it’s the fact that it’s continuous from side to side. I am still going to attempt to print a hollow cylinder to go between this piece and another similar piece in ASA, so I guess we’ll find out!

Good news: the part did not let go of the build plate. I’m pretty happy about this. My first layer is not overly squished, I’ve never used any adhesion aids (glue stick, hair spray, ASA slurry, etc), etc. Tuning my print_start sequence is resulting in a very consistent first layer.

Bad news: the build plate came up with the print. Holding the build plate down with binder clips or the like would probably just make something else fail.

Good news: I had enough PETG in stock to use that instead. Zero warpage, so great success. I had to go a bit slower because a flow test showed that I’m limited to around 25 mm^3 for PETG before the extrude motor started misstepping, despite bumping temp to 255 °C. I limited flow to 20 mm^3 to be safe. The print’s a success so meh.

  • dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    When I print ABS/ASA, I print it on a kapton sheet with hairspray as an adhesion aid. My printer (X-Max 3) does have an enclosed and heated chamber as well. I have not had an issue with getting parts off after the build plate has cooled. However, the addition of the kapton sheet means that the nuclear option is always available: Peel the sheet off along with the part, and put down a new one.

    They cost like 50 cents each in bulk. The skinflint in me prickles at this, but that’s a lot cheaper than having to replace a borked build plate. I have not had to do this with my current printer, but I did with my old one once.