I’ve ridden in some nasty conditions, and my chain didn’t have that “filth” they showed. That’s a result of using a lube that attracts and holds goo, and using too much of it. (It’s been a while, but modern lubes which include things like waxes prevent this very problem).
I really can’t see a way to beat the chain drives we have. For the same weight and space as this belt drive, you can have 20+ gear ratios with chain, and have it work near flawlessly 99% of the time.
I can already see a problem with this belt drive - that tooth arrangement with the bar in the middle will be problematic. Let just a teeny, tiny pebble (say 1/16" or 1-2mm) stick to that belt because it has a little water/mud/street grime built up and it’ll jump. Or that goo getting onto that shifting mechanism… It’ll grind and bind terribly. Funny how they compare their pristine mechanism to a “filthy” chain. This stuff operates in “filthy” environment - and this solution has far finer tolerances than chain drive.
Finer tolerances for better performance just mean a tighter perfomance window.
Edit: still ingenious engineering and very cool to watch
Wet lubes are notorious for attracting grime. Lube up, let rest overnight, wipe off excess day after and that grime still builds up quickly. And since the grime is stuck in the lube just washing it off isn’t enough. Requires a good cleaning and then new lube.
Wax is a great option but all wax solutions I’ve encountered requires a very clean drivetrail. No oils, lubes, grease etc or the wax won’t stick. More prep work but so worth it in the end.
I would love to go belt drive and there are high end internal hubs that offers similar range to 12spd mtb gears. Tech is there, tech is working but cost is still too high for me. More likely I’ll go belt drive when (if) I get me a touring/bike packing bike.
That said this mechanical solution looks too engineered to get wide adaptation. 2-3spd gear hubs are tried and tested. That said again this combined with a moderatley priced 6-8spd hub could be cool. Cool in a frankenbike kind of way.
Yep. I switched to a perifin dip and I’m never going back. I alternate between 2 chains so that I always have a fresh one ready to throw on. It’s just so much easier and more clean than dealing with traditional lube. The only issue I even have is when I take it to a bike shop and they decide to lube it without asking first.
When I got my new road/gravel bike several weeks ago, I vowed to keep my components lasting as long as possible. So, I entered the world of immersion wax. Within a few days, I converted my other two bikes to waxed chains + drip wax every 200-250km (with another full immersion at 1000km).
The silence, cleanliness, efficiency, and known low-friction/low-wear makes it sooooo worth it. I find the process and ongoing upkeep to be far, far easier than when I was using a high-quality oil-based lube (Silca Synergetic).
I just invested in a bunch of Wippermann chains and master links to make the process even easier. I really can’t see myself ever going back to traditional lube.
When I switched to wax on my mtb, my dirty chain problem/shifting issues disappeared… And I ride in a swampy area, just can’t get worse conditions - water, silt, mud, clay, dirt, sand, dried up leaves/plants, etc.
Alternatively, I’ve found that having a long front fender (i.e. mud flap nearly to the ground) can reduce chain contamination by a significant amount. I rode all winter, and we salt/sand our roads, and I didn’t have any issues with excess wear, rust, or anything like that.
Just wiped the chain with a microfiber cloth after my ride, and I was good to go. This was on cheap ass 8 speed chains, too!
Why too mechanically complex, plus chains are cheap and efficient and if encased, requires very little maintenance.
I wish encased chains were more of a thing outside of the netherlands. I would take an encased chain over a belt drive.
You can buy chain cases on amazon, though it requires an internally geared hub.
Definitely.
I’ve ridden in some nasty conditions, and my chain didn’t have that “filth” they showed. That’s a result of using a lube that attracts and holds goo, and using too much of it. (It’s been a while, but modern lubes which include things like waxes prevent this very problem).
I really can’t see a way to beat the chain drives we have. For the same weight and space as this belt drive, you can have 20+ gear ratios with chain, and have it work near flawlessly 99% of the time.
I can already see a problem with this belt drive - that tooth arrangement with the bar in the middle will be problematic. Let just a teeny, tiny pebble (say 1/16" or 1-2mm) stick to that belt because it has a little water/mud/street grime built up and it’ll jump. Or that goo getting onto that shifting mechanism… It’ll grind and bind terribly. Funny how they compare their pristine mechanism to a “filthy” chain. This stuff operates in “filthy” environment - and this solution has far finer tolerances than chain drive.
Finer tolerances for better performance just mean a tighter perfomance window.
Edit: still ingenious engineering and very cool to watch
Wet lubes are notorious for attracting grime. Lube up, let rest overnight, wipe off excess day after and that grime still builds up quickly. And since the grime is stuck in the lube just washing it off isn’t enough. Requires a good cleaning and then new lube.
Wax is a great option but all wax solutions I’ve encountered requires a very clean drivetrail. No oils, lubes, grease etc or the wax won’t stick. More prep work but so worth it in the end.
I would love to go belt drive and there are high end internal hubs that offers similar range to 12spd mtb gears. Tech is there, tech is working but cost is still too high for me. More likely I’ll go belt drive when (if) I get me a touring/bike packing bike.
That said this mechanical solution looks too engineered to get wide adaptation. 2-3spd gear hubs are tried and tested. That said again this combined with a moderatley priced 6-8spd hub could be cool. Cool in a frankenbike kind of way.
Still. Cool tech demo/proof of concept.
Yep. I switched to a perifin dip and I’m never going back. I alternate between 2 chains so that I always have a fresh one ready to throw on. It’s just so much easier and more clean than dealing with traditional lube. The only issue I even have is when I take it to a bike shop and they decide to lube it without asking first.
When I got my new road/gravel bike several weeks ago, I vowed to keep my components lasting as long as possible. So, I entered the world of immersion wax. Within a few days, I converted my other two bikes to waxed chains + drip wax every 200-250km (with another full immersion at 1000km).
The silence, cleanliness, efficiency, and known low-friction/low-wear makes it sooooo worth it. I find the process and ongoing upkeep to be far, far easier than when I was using a high-quality oil-based lube (Silca Synergetic).
I just invested in a bunch of Wippermann chains and master links to make the process even easier. I really can’t see myself ever going back to traditional lube.
When I switched to wax on my mtb, my dirty chain problem/shifting issues disappeared… And I ride in a swampy area, just can’t get worse conditions - water, silt, mud, clay, dirt, sand, dried up leaves/plants, etc.
Yea, internal makes more sense for a bike.
This design probably has more application for industrial/manufacturing environments.
Alternatively, I’ve found that having a long front fender (i.e. mud flap nearly to the ground) can reduce chain contamination by a significant amount. I rode all winter, and we salt/sand our roads, and I didn’t have any issues with excess wear, rust, or anything like that.
Just wiped the chain with a microfiber cloth after my ride, and I was good to go. This was on cheap ass 8 speed chains, too!